27th
Surfs Up
I tried surfing today for the first time in my life and I must say…it is very incredible.
I went with my friend Nelson who generously supplied the board as well. After teaching me how to pop up onto the board (I practiced a total of 3 times on the sand), we went out and I caught the very first wave attempt and surfed it in! It is an AMAZING feeling.
I can’t help but keep looking down at the water rushing past my feet. I remember a friend telling me when I was in junior high that surfing was like ‘walking on water man’ and indeed, it was exactly like walking on water man. My only problem I can think of is my horrible coordination to sit on the board and turn it around. I keep rolling over.
Anyway, surfing is great. I will try to get a board within the next couple weeks and then start hitting up the beach after work. I can’t believe I’ve been missing out this entire time. What a shame.
